CORMAC PETTITT is always a little nervous about taking a lift with Sleeda farm manager Karl Strehlow. Never let it be said that Karl is a bad driver but he does have a habit of keeping half an eye on the fields as well as paying attention to the road.

Cormac finds it unsettling that his companion is able to give a running commentary on any stock they chance to pass. Karl's mind is compulsively drawn to assessing any grazing bullock on show along the way.

Today, Cormac has consented to allow Karl take the wheel for a visit to one of the most consistent suppliers of beef on the hoof to the family supermarket chain. They have come to Begerin Loftus in Cushenstown to talk to suckler herd owner David Kinsella.

The journey is completed without mishap but Karl is no sooner out of the car than he is in rhapsodies about the size and shape of the cattle on show at the Kinsella holding in Begerin Loftus.

Lost in admiration, he points out that a recent load of heifers from this farm went to the meat factory and registered unheard of high points on the official grading scale. Of the batch of 16 beasts, fifteen scored 'U', a step up from the 'R' that the remaining one registered. For the uninitiated, Karl explains that 'R' is as high as most producers aim.

Twenty-one years in charge since he took over the land here, David Kinsella is clearly no slouch himself when it comes to judging stock. He has developed a strain of beef cattle – with the white, wiry haired Charolais breed to the fore – which is in demand not only at the meat factories but also from such discriminating buyers as Karl Strehlow.

The man from the Hamburg hinterland has been in Ireland now for close on three decades but still carries more than a trace of German in his immaculate English.

It was twenty-five years ago that he was appointed to run the Pettitt's farm at Sleedagh in Murrintown to fill the chiller cabinets of the family's growing supermarket chain.

At one stage practically all the beef sold in Pettitt's came from Murrintown, with more than 600 head of cattle to be looked after.

The lamb and pork sold under the growing Sleedagh brand (the 'gh' was later dropped in order to give the label a more modern look 10 years ago) was also reared on the same holding. Such intense production has slackened over the years in favour of picking the best from other farms.

These days, Karl is more likely to be found in the office than on the land. Though buyers Terry Mcdonald and John Doyle now conduct most of the farm visits Karl still loves an excursion such as the outing to Begerin Loftus.

He listens intently as David Kinsella explains the regime that yields such stunning results.

David tells how he spends three weeks a year hovering round his herd of cows, rubber gloves at the ready, preparing to administer AI (artificial insemination) as required. Those animals that he fails to impregnate with a straw of best imported Charolais semen, he leaves to the mercy of stock bull. The only member of the herd to have a name, virile Victor is quite a hit with the bovine ladies.

Unfortunately, his feet are giving him trouble, so David is lining up a likely bull calf as a possible replacement to take over once the hoof problem begins to interfere with the performance of procreational duties.

Karl approves the choice, pointing to the virtue of the young male's small head which promises to make his progeny easy to deliver come calving time. Such attention to detail is important in producing the best meat.

'What David produces is top notch. This is a finely tuned system and it takes some time and effort,' reckons Karl. He estimates that he and his buyers have around one hundred farms (mainly Wexford) on their list as they seek heifers that match their idea of a good beef carcase. The trend is very much towards the Continental breeds, with the likes of Aberdeen Angus reckoned too fatty.

David's son Darragh accompanies his dad on the guided tour. Cormac Pettitt notes with approval that the four-year-old is togged out in smart John Deere tractor overalls. Like father, like son. The business man, who actually resides in Sleedagh, jokes that the Christmas stocking in his house is more likely to contain a toy cash register than any such agri-chic.

And he muses that the Sleedagh brand has been good for the cash registers of the family firm. Pettitt's claim to sell a great deal more meat than friends and rivals who also trade under the Supervalu umbrella – 40 per cent more, he believes. CORMAC PETTITT is always a little nervous about taking a lift with Sleeda farm manager Karl Strehlow. Never let it be said that Karl is a bad driver but he does have a habit of keeping half an eye on the fields as well as paying attention to the road.

Cormac finds it unsettling that his companion is able to give a running commentary on any stock they chance to pass. Karl's mind is compulsively drawn to assessing any grazing bullock on show along the way.

Today, Cormac has consented to allow Karl take the wheel for a visit to one of the most consistent suppliers of beef on the hoof to the family supermarket chain. They have come to Begerin Loftus in Cushenstown to talk to suckler herd owner David Kinsella.

The journey is completed without mishap but Karl is no sooner out of the car than he is in rhapsodies about the size and shape of the cattle on show at the Kinsella holding in Begerin Loftus.

Lost in admiration, he points out that a recent load of heifers from this farm went to the meat factory and registered unheard of high points on the official grading scale. Of the batch of 16 beasts, fifteen scored 'U', a step up from the 'R' that the remaining one registered. For the uninitiated, Karl explains that 'R' is as high as most producers aim.

Twenty-one years in charge since he took over the land here, David Kinsella is clearly no slouch himself when it comes to judging stock. He has developed a strain of beef cattle – with the white, wiry haired Charolais breed to the fore – which is in demand not only at the meat factories but also from such discriminating buyers as Karl Strehlow.

The man from the Hamburg hinterland has been in Ireland now for close on three decades but still carries more than a trace of German in his immaculate English.

It was twenty-five years ago that he was appointed to run the Pettitt's farm at Sleedagh in Murrintown to fill the chiller cabinets of the family's growing supermarket chain.

At one stage practically all the beef sold in Pettitt's came from Murrintown, with more than 600 head of cattle to be looked after.

The lamb and pork sold under the growing Sleedagh brand (the 'gh' was later dropped in order to give the label a more modern look 10 years ago) was also reared on the same holding. Such intense production has slackened over the years in favour of picking the best from other farms.

These days, Karl is more likely to be found in the office than on the land. Though buyers Terry Mcdonald and John Doyle now conduct most of the farm visits Karl still loves an excursion such as the outing to Begerin Loftus.

He listens intently as David Kinsella explains the regime that yields such stunning results.

David tells how he spends three weeks a year hovering round his herd of cows, rubber gloves at the ready, preparing to administer AI (artificial insemination) as required. Those animals that he fails to impregnate with a straw of best imported Charolais semen, he leaves to the mercy of stock bull. The only member of the herd to have a name, virile Victor is quite a hit with the bovine ladies.

Unfortunately, his feet are giving him trouble, so David is lining up a likely bull calf as a possible replacement to take over once the hoof problem begins to interfere with the performance of procreational duties.

Karl approves the choice, pointing to the virtue of the young male's small head which promises to make his progeny easy to deliver come calving time. Such attention to detail is important in producing the best meat.

'What David produces is top notch. This is a finely tuned system and it takes some time and effort,' reckons Karl. He estimates that he and his buyers have around one hundred farms (mainly Wexford) on their list as they seek heifers that match their idea of a good beef carcase. The trend is very much towards the Continental breeds, with the likes of Aberdeen Angus reckoned too fatty.

David's son Darragh accompanies his dad on the guided tour. Cormac Pettitt notes with approval that the four-year-old is togged out in smart John Deere tractor overalls. Like father, like son. The business man, who actually resides in Sleedagh, jokes that the Christmas stocking in his house is more likely to contain a toy cash register than any such agri-chic.

And he muses that the Sleedagh brand has been good for the cash registers of the family firm. Pettitt's claim to sell a great deal more meat than friends and rivals who also trade under the Supervalu umbrella – 40 per cent more, he believes.

- DAVID MEDCALF